PART VI 27 AUGUST TO 11 OCTOBER 2009
THURSDAY 27 AUGUST
After 3 lovely days with Sophie, Henry, Tabitha and Alexandra in France, Sophie very nobly drove us to Montpellier Airport, she is driving back to Prague tomorrow - driving practice I think.
A rather strange trip:-
Ryanair to Stansted, Pegasus to Istanbul Sabiha Gochen, which was late so nearly missed the connection and of course, had to buy new visas which was done very quickly this time. Very efficiently we were escorted by a delightful female airport official in minibus to plane, luckily we only kept the rest of the passengers waiting about 10 mins and there were 5 of us.
Took time to get our luggage as we had to go to the International Terminal. Oktay, our friendly taxi driver, was there to meet us.
Arrived at Eos about 21.00.
Luckily it was dark so couldn’t see how dirty she was. Otherwise all well and we went off to Marina Bar for a well deserved beer. Everyone pleased to see us again. John and Clare Scott were in but didn’t meet up.
Don and Sheila boat sitting on Pauline’s Sarah whilst their boat is out of the water.
FRI 28 hot
The new stern ladder is superb and very professional looking, as is the relocated swim ladder.
Our homemade gangway still needs a bit of alteration, we will soon have it right.
The new side curtains, to shield boat from sun, have mostly done their job, we shall have to fill in the odd cracks. Cabin top badly cracked again around doors.
Washed down boat, she was covered in coarse sand blown over from Africa I think.
Re-victualled at Migros, paid Basar, changed English money into Turkish lira in case I see a rug or throw.
SAT 29 Hot, some clouds early Video
Slipped circa 11.30, calm run to Samos Marina for fuel and tinned smoked fish and also wine, from supermarket.
Wind up a bit but good run to AGATHONISI, arr 18.30, no room in harbour or adjacent bay where we swam last year. Lots of anti-immigrant activity. Found a good holding in 2nd bay to left of village, just us for a long time until a French sailing boat came in.
Good calm night for once.
SUN 30 slightly cooler first thing, hot later Video
Slipped 08.15, flat calm, breakfast en route. Good run to GULLUK. Passed several huge fish farms, just off northern shore of gulf. Nowhere obvious to tie to, until someone showed us the narrow end of the quay. Tricky getting in past tourist boat anchor lines, which were all on the skew. Wind got up and a very nasty lop, all fenders on st/b side to fend off a small motor boat. Quite uncomfortable and noisy. Luckily around 18.00 the wind abated and we had a lovely calm evening.
The Anchor pub/restaurant, opp the end of jetty, has a lovely rooftop bar and dining room, might eat there sometime.
Today is Victory Day when the Turks beat the Greeks at Battle of Dumlupınar in 1922. Parades, martial songs, flag waving etc.
The waiter at The Anchor remarked that our Turkish courtesy flag looked rather old!!
MON 31 AUGUST Hot, windy and lumpy on mooring later.
09.00 we had a visit from a policeman escorting the head (2nd head) man at the town hall who wanted to present us with a new Turkish courtesy flag as ours was a bit worn; the waiter at the restaurant must have informed him of our tatty one. The Turks take the treatment of their national flag very seriously.
Cleaning and sorting, v. dirty windows. Polished st/s all round boat.
Spent sometime looking for an alternative mooring as this one is too lumpy for John and Judy, wind forecast to increase; however, no joy.
Supper of delicious liver from the local butcher.
Met at a bar, an Englishman, Chris, who has just bought a property here as an escape from flat property scene in London, a bit dull!!
TUE 1 SEPT HOT
Quick shop for fruit and veg from a lovely shop keeper whose granddaughter does the calculations, he just sits in front of the weighing scales piling on each purchase - not sure how he knows what each weighed at the end.
Across the sound to ASIN LIMANI (ancient Assos), stern to. Slightly dilapidated fishing port, some shops, 2 restaurants, one of which we went to, on the water’s edge, pleasant but not perfect.
We were joined at quayside by 7 Sunsail boats, all jolly and not noisy.
Mike went to Dalaman airport to meet John and Judy (taxi to and from airport 80 TL inc. waiting time). They flew into Istanbul for a few days direct from Melbourne, we are the first leg of their European visit.
SO nice to see them for the first time for 4 years.
We launched the dinghy, which filled up with water, but our little pump was up to the job.
Went to the restaurant on water’s edge.
For some reason I felt awful, with streaming nose and eyes and probably a temperature; dosed myself up and was fine the next day.
WED 2 hot. nice breeze later in afternoon, cooler at night
J& J slept well, obviously their “time clocks” are adjusting pretty quickly after flight from Australia.
All except Judy went to explore the ancient city of IASSOS, John and I walked gently uphill through ancient olive and oak plantations, with glimpses of sparkling blue sea; Mike, of course, went the more difficult route, straight up!! What a gem, and again like Knidos, very extensive building works, small amphitheatre, huge columns, wonderful carvings.
The Turkish flag flying proudly from the highest point. Two archaeologists working in the shade of a fig tree.
Slipped around 12.30 to go round to next bay CAM LIMANI. Lunch, sleep, lovely swim, water not as clear as around Marti, Bozburun etc.
BBQ our lamb kebabs, very tender, lucky as when I was cutting up the meat it looked like stewing lamb.
Beautiful moon, very, very peaceful with only a little bit of noise from the village and beach.
V. good having J & J to help especially with dinghy which is still leaking.
The two men happy reminiscing about past escapades!!
THUR 3 hot but not unbearable.
Wind later s/s 1-2
Mended leak in generator coolant system, then off to find a cove for swimming. INCEGOL BURNU with olive trees to edge of bay. Took dinghy ashore to investigate and mend leaks - a partial success.
Wind got up and as it was blowing into the bay decided to move back to CAM LIMANI, not quite in the same position as last night.
Lovely lunch, bit of a snooze, then lovely swimming. Back to GULLUK for night. Our same little quay still available. Medium supper at the Anchor opp the boat, where we ordered Jimmy the taxi. Good man
Figgies packing up, earlyish night.
Remembered to get them to sign the visitors’ book.
FRI 4 hot, wind by midday. Great swell in afternoon
New moon. Lovely hot loaf from baker round the corner.
08.45 Jimmy “the taxi” arrived dead on time. Fond farewells to John and Judy who are on their way to Peter and Julian in Sicily. Their journey with 3 different flights was a little fraught and their luggage didn’t arrive for 2 days.
We have a sorting out day, fixed the catch to the veg cupboard - a great improvement; washing, window cleaning, they are continually covered with sun cream as we brush past.
Calamari from the Balik shop, nearly an international incident as I mistakenly gave him a Serbian 5 $ note which wasn’t noticed at the time. As Mike and I walked past later, he accosted me to get it changed!! all well in the end.
Had a beer at good bar, and later on at Celine’s bar - quite disgusting smell of pee inside, yet this seems the favourite haunt of the British expats - what a life.
SAT 5 hot, breeze at midday and great swell later
More washing which dried in half an hour, painting, crack filling on the hull. The boat is still in the process of refit, hence the continual need to work on the next projects, both large and small.
The next door boat owner brought us 2 fish, we will BBQ them tonight delicious.
SUN 6 v. hot, lumpy later
More washing, where does it come from? more useful jobs done, big shop, walk etc.
The harbour road is closed to traffic after 18.00, which makes a wonderful space for children to play football, outside the police station, ride bikes etc. The whole town out for evening promenade.
Had drink at the friendly bar just past the fish shop.
Out to sea to empty tanks.
MON 7 hot and v lumpy
16.00-19.00 Getting ready for Tom and Madeleine Cunningham, polishing the s/s, washing decks etc. (Admiral’s inspection)
Circa 15.00 they arrived, lovely to see them. VERY lumpy on board and had to have supper inside. Sometimes it is extremely difficult to get ashore, good thing we are all agile!!
Woken in the night by the “Ramadan” drummer marching around the town at 03.00.
Difficulty filling up our water tanks as the hose wouldn’t stay attached to the tap, so our friend on board next door boat had to hold it on - a can of beer in thanks.
After we had been presented with a new Turkish courtesy flag last week, we decided we should reciprocate by presenting the town with a RNVRYC burgee and who better to do this than Tom, so off we marched to the Town Hall - did they think us mad, yes.
TUE 8 hot, wind later, very lumpy
Wind too strong to leave so went on a lovely trip by dolmus to MILAS where it was market day - what a treat, stall after stall of the most beautiful fruit and veg, eggs, baby chicks, clothes and a small boy of 7 or 8 selling a lethal collection of knives. The scents, noise and people, just wonderful. A few women wearing traditional headgear and one with the most fantastic bright blue bloomers (?) and dress.
Lunch at a funny little cafe, didn’t know we had ordered eggy bread pizzas!
Some lovely old buildings, now mostly dilapidated, also wonderful hardware shops, I am sure ours don’t sell bee keeping equipment.
Madeleine and I had tea at our adjoining “council” teahouse, whilst Mike and Tom went through the laborious business of checking out of Turkey - two hours- 6.90TL. (we think the local authorities run these teahouses, so that people can drink tea at cost and sit somewhere comfortably and in the shade.
Supper on board, v. lumpy again, didn’t sleep well.
WED 9 bit of sun, cloud, wind.
Up at 06.00, slipped 07.15, wind up to 4, s/s 2/3, 5.5 hours to LEROS, harbour on southern tip, XEROCAMPOS, which is a deep inlet, several boats, 2 tavernas, huge sports stadium and nothing else.
Swam, beautifully clear water.Mike and Tom went off in dinghy to explore to find suitable place for supper.
Later we all went ashore for supper at fairly basic but friendly taverna close by.
Disaster on return, Mike in dinghy, Madeleine getting in, me just about to, when dinghy capsized with Madeleine underneath, righted dinghy and set off for Eos. I was just getting Madeleine sorted with hot shower, dry clothes etc. when a call from the stern and the same thing had happened when Tom was getting out of dinghy. Eventually got everyone rinsed and dry, but realised we had lost one of our lovely oak oars, Mike wanted to swim around looking, silly boy in the dark!! Bed.
More rinsing and spinning of all salty clothes. Just setting off when a shout from adjacent boat - we had forgotten lovely dinghy and sunk her again - poor thing, what a life. A rope around our prop so after baling out boat for the third time, Mike had to don his goggles and flippers to free the lines.
Eventually we set off into a choppy sea up the east coast of Leros, only to find the wind had gone round to NE. Good run to LIPSOI, stern to this time, (we came here with Emma, Graeme etc. when it was very loppy and we berthed alongside) All berths taken, including an enormous gulet around 35m, all nationalities. Shopped, supermarket still has no meat. Good supper, people watching a great spectator sport. Berthing 5€.
Madeleine and I went on long exploring walk through and up the village, the paintwork is the most luminous blue I have ever seen. We couldn’t go in the little church but could peer through the windows to see the gloriously ornate brass chandeliers.
FRI 11 warm, cloudy Video
Slipped 10.30 for PATMOS and didn’t forget the dinghy this time. A calm run. Stern to but forgot there is no electricity on quay and water has to be ordered from a tanker. Entry procedures require a crew list. 15€ plus 3€ for something, plus 5.28 for harbour dues? I forget what.
T & M went off exploring. Looks like rain. I cleaned the shower drain and aft end pump.
Short sharp rain around 19.00.
Huge 35m Xantria, Liberian/Monrovia registered yacht.
SAT 12 cloudy, warmish sun later
I waited for the water tanker, then walked up to the Chora - 1 hour. The others had caught the bus and went on a conducted tour. Whilst waiting I eaves-dropped on a party being lectured to by a very erudite and interesting Oxford Professor, don’t suppose I will remember anything he said unfortunately. It is lovely up there, pottered about, had an ice cream, walked down again.
Shopped at the good supermarket and the nearby fruit and veg shop. Around the bay is an exhibition of outdoor furniture made out of branches, tree trunks etc., sculpture really.
“Fen Tiger”, a 42ft. Sun Odyssey came alongside, she from March, he from Hemingford Gray and the Ouse Water board and of course knew Bill Fillenham, his boss. (Bill a great friend of Ma and Pa’s at Overy). They came aboard for a drink.
Supper on board, then another drink at a Marine Bar.
During the day, Mike and Tom made a new pair of oars from spade handles. Paid 3€ mooring.
SUN 13 hot
Had a day off and went by bus to GRIKOU, our favourite place we visited with E & G last year. Just exactly the same, very peaceful, perhaps more boats in the bay. Reiko Smith, the Japanese jewellery designer and her boat were there still, she so pleased to see us and still has Emma’s “goodbye” note pinned to her cabin wall. She came for a post lunch drink. Her violin playing daughter had been married the previous week, with a party at the other taverna.
Good swimming, then lovely lunch at the same table at same taverna as last year. Quick walk along beach towards the boatyard, then back on the bus to Patmos. Lovely, lovely day.
MON 14 hot, no wind, cloud later. Video
Slipped 08.45. Luckily Fen Tiger hadn’t overlaid our chain. Arrived Leros Lakki
Eventually found a little place for ourselves on the Town Quay, stern to, close to the ‘Yacht Club’ which turned out to be a cafe; had a little difficulty getting our lines ashore; we have found this before, the Greeks don’t take lines unlike the Turks who generally try really hard. 20€.
Very Italianate, some gorgeous buildings, some very dilapidated. Very noisy but good-hearted.
T & M went off to explore, Mike and I had very big ice creams.
As fellow Cruising Association members, we were invited for drinks by Jean and Bill Andrews on board their ancient boat, Jean had been Commodore of the CA at some stage. I imagine they are both in their late 70’s or early 80’s, still cruising gently and know the whole area well.
Another couple Vanessa and John on Meander.
Slipped 1015 for KALIMNOS
WED 16 hot, windy at sea Decided too windy to go to Kos.
T & M went to the fish market for calamari, then caught the ferry and had a lovely and interesting day (Mike and I must go there sometime)
Mike and I washed the boat thoroughly which was still covered with Sahara brown sand.
Had a lovely seafood lunch and enjoyed the day in Kalimnos.
This is such a very busy town, quite charming, ferries to everywhere, commercial and tourist boats. Saw a pick-up van with 3 enormous tuna fish taking up the whole of the flat back.
Bill and Jean came for a drink. There doesn’t appear to be a problem with going east towards Syria and Lebanon.
Late supper on board, boys off for a night cap, late home with 2 “shot” glasses from the bar.
THURS 17 hot
Decided on early dash before breakfast to Bodrum. Good trip, the wind didn’t actually get up as forecast. On leaving we picked up the next door Swedish boat’s anchor chain and woke them up - we thought they had come in askew!! Arr. BODRUM 12.00, very, very crowded and a huge number of gulets, many of whom looked out of work. We were taken to a very tight mooring between two lovely old, well kept wooden boats - didn’t hit a thing. Not cheap- 53.75€ for the night and 60TL deposit on the electric key. Not to mention the 10 TL mandatory fee for water and electric and the 88€ transit log fee. No wonder people don’t always sign in and out.
Great difficulty signing into Turkey, we were told we should have an agent at 190 euros. Mike rang Nigel Meredith Jones’ skipper for advice who found someone who did it for 150 TL.
Shopping at small Carrefour - not brilliant.
Bought 2 new life jackets but no new gas cylinder for Tom’s jacket.
Early supper on board to await the arrival of Kevin and Ann Kinsella.
Lovely to see them again, we managed to squeeze them in and used the table bed in galley saloon for first time; having not been used for a while was a bit stiff to lower and raise.
FRI 18 hot. Video
Slipped easily in spite of tight mooring. Good calm trip to COKERTME, wind got up a bit and was quite tricky coming up to the jetty. We had several boys waving us in to the various restaurant jetties; we chose the Cokertme restaurant. They still have belly dancers in the main tourist season - we were too late.Lovely swimming and later a most amusing supper. Tom had organised what he thought was a plate of mixed mezze each, it turned out to be 13 cold dishes and 4 hot, each, all for starters. Kevin and I had a delicious octopus casserole, the others lamb kebabs; having eaten so much to start with I was hard pushed to finish my main course. We finished the meal with copious amounts of Turkish brandy - I haven’t looked at the bill yet!! I did- it was very high!!
Hassan the owner had owned a restaurant in Walthamstow.
SAT 19 hot Video
Tom and Madeleine decided to leave to find a hotel in Bodrum till their flight on Monday morning. We had planned to go across to south side of Gorkova Korfezi, but the forecast was not good for getting them back again across the gulf and too far by road for them.
Sad farewells. Our departure delayed slightly by the oil (port) warning light coming on, we had to anchor to check all OK, then had to text Tom to put his mind at rest, they were running along beach very concerned.
Good trip to SOGUT down a beautiful wooded inlet to the head; a lovely slightly wonky jetty, ducks, geese, a few shops and 2 restaurants.
The whole of this gulf is completely free of development for a change.
Tristan came in, we had seen them in Marti, a bit flash but very competent.
Realised I had forgotten to get T & M to sign the visitors’ book. Might have been charged 25 tl. Might not.
Lovely peaceful evening, hooting owls, quacking ducks and geese. Slightly chilly at night.
Slipped circa 09.30 to English Harbour, where the SAS holed up during the war, DIGIRMEN BUKU, 2 or 3 other boats in, but funnily none of us on Eos liked it. Then the alarm came on again so anchored to check it out. We could hear whistling and shouting but couldn’t tell from where it came, thought it might have been directed at a German boat coming down the inlet. Suddenly I saw a soldier on the land through the trees; we knew there was a prohibited zone further up as an “important” Turkish politician has his holiday house here. We were just bringing up the anchor, having successfully sorted out the alarm, when a land rover and four armed soldiers appeared having driven right round the head of the inlet. No mistaking what they wanted “get out”!!
We went on to YEDIADALAR (Tuzla Koyu) where we had great difficulty finding an anchorage, either too deep or in the way of someone else. Eventually all other boats left bar one gulet who moved and is now too close to us. Good swimming. Lovely stars. Decided to move once more. Good bbq of lamb cutlets.
Set up anchor alarm, all to bed, but wind moved round to east so sent us a bit too close to the shore and rocks. Kevin and Mike on anchor watch - not a good night.
MON 21 not so hot, stronger wind later Video
The gulet left circa 06.00. We slipped 08.15. Sea gradually more confused, not too much wind. Unable to make our desired port of call so decided to go into the wind across the gulf to PAPUC for anchoring and lunch. Eventually decided this was not a good spot for the night, a) no dinghy handy for taking a line ashore and b) heard part of weather forecast - not good. Rang up Bodrum for a space. arr. 15.30 into a nice berth with good views.
Shortly after wind rose to 6/7, people having great difficulty coming in and boatmen very busy. One boat was caught broadside to its neighbour and ripped off some of the stanchions - it sounded horrific but in fact sounded worse than it was.
Out for supper - very good. End of Ramadan and a new moon.
TUE 22 hot
Spent the day in Bodrum as wind still too strong for a comfortable trip.
Took us a long time to find the local food shops. The market near dolmus bus station was in fabric/clothes mode so no food there. Eventually found a delightful corner with butchers, fishmongers and greengrocers. Bought a large quantity of small calamari, lots of fruit and veg - no lamb’s liver.
We had a good visit to Bodrum Castle, the museum of underwater found artefacts, very interesting, took lots of photos.
Long lunch out.
Just cooking supper when Kevin asked the French couple on next door boat for supper, they had just arrived after quite a long hard journey.
Lucky I was making a calamari stew, white wine, onions etc., delicious and plenty for the 6 of us. The trouble was they didn’t go until 12.45.
We have been very lucky, they had spent 3 days storm bound in Pythagorean.
Paid up 107.50€ for three nights. Slipped 09.15, good run to PALAMUT, looked in at Knidos - very crowded, looks as though they have already put right the battered slipway damaged the previous week.
Palamut is a dear little harbour, lots of restaurants, simple shops, very popular and crowded, we came in just in time. Lovely swimming. SANDUNA, blue ensign and RNSA from Marmaris came for RPC, Peter and Anne Wilson, Simon and friend Matt; a delightful lot, Anne and Peter recently married, the boys both in filming of some sort or another. Early to bed for Ann and I. Palamut fee 50TL say £20.
THUR 24 hot, v. little wind Video
Slipped 09.30. Good run to SYMI, arr. 12.30, had to wait for berth whilst a German boat mucked about, driving all mad at not getting into its slot. 3 ferries arrived at the same time adding to the chaos.
Mike and I went for a good walk up to the church, which has glorious crystal and brass chandeliers, also beautifully laid pebble paths.
Good fruit shop, supper on board. This is a brilliant place for people spotting.
Symi is even more delightful this time round. And only 10€.
FRI 25 warm Cloudy later and some rain
Slipped 09.30, quiet run to BOZUK BUKU/LORIMAR and the same restaurant jetty as when John and Sue came. 4 donkeys and several goats around. The boat girls came to sell, I might have bought a big throw, but they hadn’t anything wide enough. The ice-cream boat came, but at 7.50 TKL we only had enough change for 2, which made him a little annoyed.
No one else came to jetty, therefore we were the only diners - not a brilliant meal. The young boss man was not there this time and their motor boat had sunk in last week’s rain and wind. Video
SAT 26 cloudy, hot sun later v. hot later Video
Poor Kevin woke up with a sore throat as well as the bad back he incurred yesterday.
Slipped 09.45, another quiet run to BOZBURUN, we are anchored in the same place as in June with Sue and John. The tramp is still here but not the ATM, which was taken away in August. Good butcher in street behind the chemist. BBQ and Kevin made his famous hummus - delicious.
Next door boat is Noryema no. 14 of Ron Amey’s boats and the only cruising boat. (Ron Amey was a stalwart of RORC, in the 1960’s, a keen and successful racer and head of Amey construction)
The local authorities appear to be building a new jetty, looks as though it is for the local fishing boats.
Noticed this time lots of better class houses and gardens built around the bay.
SUN 27 warm, cloudless blue sky Hot, cooler towards night Video
08.30 went for a full English breakfast at cafe - interesting. Filled the tanks with water VERY slowly. Slipped 10.45 ish. Nice out of gulf quite rough to SELIMIYE. Made a really awful stern approach - probably me not pulling the head rope quickly enough, scratched our stern as we veered to st/b!!
Lovely swimming again. Supper on shore - good.
MON 28 hot, cooler in evening Video
Slipped 10.00 after swim and scrub of weed from waterline.
Good run to DATCA. Moored in same place as in June. Put out anchor too soon and had difficulty getting close enough to shore. We were told that this part of the quay had been demolished in the wind, but looked very similar to us.
Americans next door, one of whom trained as a medic in Liverpool, now a pathologist in New York; very interested in the Georgian Society in Liverpool.
Kevin bought lovely Turkish cakes for tea.
Delicious lamb noisettes and calamari for starters.
Evening drinks ashore.
GROWL TIGER an RAF and blue ensign boat and G.....? from Southampton, gorgeous ketches 60ft.
TUE 29 hot Much cooler in evenings. Video
Slipped 08.35. Good run to GUMUSLUK. Practiced “man overboard” but some of us will have to do much more training - bad luck for the person who doesn’t get retrieved!!!
Luckily room for us on the quay, same place as earlier in the year. Same tight squeeze for tripper boats. Last supper on board with K & A - sausages and lentils.
Quick run ashore. Bed
WED 30 warm but chill in the air.
Rest day in Gumusluk. Full Turkish breakfast at the cafe opp boat, run by an aged couple and their offspring. 2 fried eggs, cheese, toms, cucumber, bread and butter - very good.
Long walk according to my guide book which didn’t work out at all and we scrambled through thorny bushes and up and down rocks, didn’t find the route at all. Realised later that there were two mosques in the village and we took our route from the wrong one.
Walked to end of the bay to find “lost city of Myndos” I found one room under the sea.
I then walked to Limon restaurant on the Yalikavak road, very alternative, decided not to eat there.
Last supper together at FENICE (?) hotel and restaurant. Very good, delicious fish and delightful maitre d.
OCTOBER THURS 1 hot
Kevin and Ann packing for off, back by Dolmus to Bodrum, then evening flight to Gatwick, home by midnight. We have had a lovely time with them again. 2 nights plus electric 129 TL
Mike and I slipped 09.15 ish and had a very good run to KUSADASI, 7 hours, both engines, fair amount of boating/shipping around. 4 dolphins followed us for a while.
A warm welcome by the marina boatmen and a berth opposite the office, very handy, except for the closeness to the disco at night.
Cathy and Derek, Sheila and Don, Jim and Doreen all in harbour.
END OF TRAVELS FOR 2009
FRI 2-14 Cleaned the boat - again.
Bought a rubber dinghy from Graham and Val on SILVER HEELS II who have sailed from Australia and this was surplus to their requirements. Very nice couple. 2 People walking by recognised our Storebro as they had been paid hands on one some time ago; she wearing very strange sort of Turkish clothes.
I have never seen SO many grossly fat men and women of all nationalities and why do the women think they can wear a bikini - it is quite revolting.
The French women manage to look good on a boat - always a little scarf, piece of jewellery, all v. simple and elegant.
Slim and well dressed people is in direct relation to the size and wealth of their yacht, hence a-b’s look after themselves.
Went to “Pigeon Island”, the far side of the commercial harbour from us, a nice cool and shady spot from which to watch the comings and goings in the harbour. Not as touristy as it looked at first glance. It would be more interesting if the authorities put some better historical facts around the area.
Kusadasi takes its name from Bird Island - originally a stopping point for migratory birds.
One of the really nice things about Turkey is that they seem devoid of the gangs of mindless noisy youths we have at home.
Hot. Our 44th wedding anniversary. Had a day off from work and went to EPHESUS, this is the reason for the huge number of cruise ships coming to Kusadasi, they go by coach, we went by bus; for the first hour had the place to ourselves until we met the great hordes coming down from the north entrance.
The place is sensational, close to the south entrance is the Church of Mary Magdalene, lovely and with a font about 1.5 metres in diameter. The Library which is on the front cover of all the guide books, beautifully restored with SO much detailed carving, the wide and long marble road and the extensive hill houses, fairly recently excavated which are now under cover and have the most wonderful frescoes and terrazzo floors.
Can’t quite understand why it is the Austrian Government which has given so much money for the restoration.
I spent the afternoon buying presents and was not at all hassled. I bought an unpolished amber small bead necklace for Sophie and a deep coral for Emma. Alexandra to have a little bone box decorated with the Hagia Sophia and the Bosporus plus a little bowl, as she already had a similar necklace, which her friends brought back from Burma for her.
Supper at Fish Restaurant at the corner of the marina - don’t think it is as good as Bebop.
Rain Spent the next few days varnishing, washing, Mike winterising the engines etc.
Last day but one, windy and rain though not as prolonged as forecast.
Met Rick from a 60ft. yacht owned by an ex KGB, now oilfield owner, who is building a 100ft. yacht near Rome. R an interesting and competent guy, long hair, chain smoker, tanned and scruffy, typical of the yacht skippering fraternity.
Biked to fish market for calamari for lunch.
The boat all ready for the winter, bikes stowed in saloon, clothes and bedding packed in Ikea waterproof bags, food cupboards and fridge cleared, oars, boat hooks etc. on high shelf in aft cabin. etc. etc.
Last lovely supper at Bebop, we think it is the best food we have tasted in Turkey and delightful staff.
Fond farewells to all and even Zeynap Alkan (marina administrator who can be a bit distant) came on board and gave me two kisses.
Seems impossible to buy less than one kilo of veg/fruit. Often all purchases are piled on the scales one after the other and the price is quite vague to say the least.
06.00 Oktay taxi to Izmir airport. Pegasus to Istanbul/Stansted. Train to Liverpool. Good trip home and the end of another year’s boating.
At Sabiha Gochen airport we encountered between 60-70 Turkish ladies in their best clothes, with all their hand luggage in plastic bags, fastened with meters of parcel tape, couldn’t tell where they are destined.
END OF YEAR THOUGHTS
Although we have had enviable year, enjoyed having our visitors, visited interesting places, met interesting people, we both feel we haven’t achieved as much as previous years, not quite such an adventure and of course their are hundreds of people doing the same as us, unlike the trip across Europe, up the Rhine and down the Danube where we are still amongst the few.
HOTELS which we could stay in one day, when we are very old
Assos. Hotel Kervansaray, v. smart with gorgeous looking rooms on top floor with roof terrace.
Symi: Hotel Aliki, Symi 85600 Dodecanese, Greece.
This is the one round the corner from main harbour with the lovely doormat! see photo
Athens: easyJet hotel “Apollo”, found name in flight magazine.